Comments for Exterior Wall Finishes http://wall2wallsolutions.co.uk/blog Wall2WallSolutions weblog Fri, 12 Feb 2010 11:34:39 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.0.1 Comment on W2W Intro by admin http://wall2wallsolutions.co.uk/blog/?p=1#comment-4847 admin Fri, 12 Feb 2010 11:34:39 +0000 http://wall2wallsolutions.co.uk/blog/?p=1#comment-4847 Hi Christoper Cleaning Render You could use a bio wash treatment; you can buy most fungicidal washes from your local decorators or of course B&Q Best do a small test patch first, I would recommend that you wet the wall down first then spray the acticide wash on following the instructions. To clean self coloured render you could also use mild bleach detergent and warm water dilution again does a small test patch scrub with a medium bristle brush. Wash either treatment off with warm water, As I am sure you will appreciate nothing lasts forever and even your through coloured render will require over painting making to make it fresh again. We can provide fungicidal breathable paints that inhibit mould growth Ask us for Details Other things to bear in mind Keep garden soil levels as far below the system level as possible as soil splashing will soon discolour the base of the system. finishes, particularly lightly coloured ones. Dripping overflows and splashes from leaking gutters and down-pipes can soon mark and spoil a new finish. Such leaks should be repaired as soon as possible. Don’t reverse vehicles up to walls with newly applied finishes on as exhaust emissions quickly leave unsightly black marks. Care should be taken when handling heavy objects, for example dustbins, near the system. Although the system is resistant to damage, these types of objects particularly near corners can cause damage, which is visibly undesirable although easily repairable. Plants, trees and creepers can cause staining of lightly coloured finishes and care should therefore be taken in the positioning of them. Climbing plants, provided they have a properly fixed trellis available for them will not cause any damage to the system. However, they may cause some staining of lightly coloured finishes Hi Christoper
Cleaning Render
You could use a bio wash treatment; you can buy most fungicidal washes from your local decorators or of course B&Q
Best do a small test patch first, I would recommend that you wet the wall down first then spray the acticide wash on following the instructions.
To clean self coloured render you could also use mild bleach detergent and warm water dilution again does a small test patch scrub with a medium bristle brush. Wash either treatment off with warm water,
As I am sure you will appreciate nothing lasts forever and even your through coloured render will require over painting making to make it fresh again.
We can provide fungicidal breathable paints that inhibit mould growth Ask us for Details
Other things to bear in mind
Keep garden soil levels as far below the system level as possible as soil splashing will soon discolour the base of the system.
finishes, particularly lightly coloured ones.

Dripping overflows and splashes from leaking gutters and down-pipes can soon mark and spoil a new finish. Such leaks should be repaired as soon as possible.

Don’t reverse vehicles up to walls with newly applied finishes on as exhaust emissions quickly leave unsightly black marks.

Care should be taken when handling heavy objects, for example dustbins, near the system. Although the system is resistant to damage, these types of objects particularly near corners can cause damage, which is visibly undesirable although easily repairable.

Plants, trees and creepers can cause staining of lightly coloured finishes and care should therefore be taken in the positioning of them.

Climbing plants, provided they have a properly fixed trellis available for them will not cause any damage to the system. However, they may cause some staining of lightly coloured finishes

]]> Comment on W2W Intro by C. Herring http://wall2wallsolutions.co.uk/blog/?p=1#comment-4845 C. Herring Thu, 11 Feb 2010 12:35:39 +0000 http://wall2wallsolutions.co.uk/blog/?p=1#comment-4845 Re:Self coloured Render Can you please give advice as to how to clean "self coloured" render, which has become badly blackened by damp below a parapet wall. (We obviously do not want to decorate) Many thanks Christopher Re:Self coloured Render
Can you please give advice as to how to clean “self coloured” render, which has become badly blackened by damp below a parapet wall. (We obviously do not want to decorate)
Many thanks
Christopher

]]> Comment on Your Comments by Ted Moore http://wall2wallsolutions.co.uk/blog/?page_id=2#comment-4833 Ted Moore Tue, 09 Feb 2010 20:24:31 +0000 #comment-4833 Hello, I have a solar panel with a broken glass (numerous small cracks, so I'm guessing it is tempered glass). The solar cells were bonded to the glass during build, and I fear I would break the silicon cells if I try to 'replace' the glass--the panel still works quite well as it is, but I don't want to leave it out in the elements for fear that rain may short the circuit. So, my plan is to either put another sheet of glass over-top, or a thin film, or a clear coating. I would prefer to not have the extra weight of another sheet of glass (and frame), and clear films may not hold up to the sunlight very long. Of course I would have to do some testing to see if your coating would drastically affect my solar panel performance, but I'm willing to take that chance if you believe your W2W clear coating would adhere to my glass. (Your website specified that this product was designed for multiple surfaces, but glass was not in the list.) What do you think the life of the product would be for my application? Does it 'yellow' or fade over time? And where can I purchase a pint/gallon of your product? Thanks, Ted Hello,
I have a solar panel with a broken glass (numerous small cracks, so I’m guessing it is tempered glass). The solar cells were bonded to the glass during build, and I fear I would break the silicon cells if I try to ‘replace’ the glass–the panel still works quite well as it is, but I don’t want to leave it out in the elements for fear that rain may short the circuit. So, my plan is to either put another sheet of glass over-top, or a thin film, or a clear coating. I would prefer to not have the extra weight of another sheet of glass (and frame), and clear films may not hold up to the sunlight very long. Of course I would have to do some testing to see if your coating would drastically affect my solar panel performance, but I’m willing to take that chance if you believe your W2W clear coating would adhere to my glass. (Your website specified that this product was designed for multiple surfaces, but glass was not in the list.) What do you think the life of the product would be for my application? Does it ‘yellow’ or fade over time? And where can I purchase a pint/gallon of your product? Thanks,
Ted

]]> Comment on Your Comments by Ruari Treble http://wall2wallsolutions.co.uk/blog/?page_id=2#comment-4779 Ruari Treble Thu, 04 Feb 2010 16:20:00 +0000 #comment-4779 Hello We have a timber kit house built inside an old rubble barn. The exterior was rendered with cemement, which is now starting to crack. You had visited my neighbours house to provide them with a quote a few years ago. But at that time they had allready had the render removed from the front. I understand that if this render had not been removed the best solution would have been a plastic paint. Can you enlighten me on this? Regards Ruari Hello

We have a timber kit house built inside an old rubble barn. The exterior was rendered with cemement, which is now starting to crack.
You had visited my neighbours house to provide them with a quote a few years ago. But at that time they had allready had the render removed from the front. I understand that if this render had not been removed the best solution would have been a plastic paint.
Can you enlighten me on this?

Regards
Ruari

]]> Comment on Your Comments by Chris M http://wall2wallsolutions.co.uk/blog/?page_id=2#comment-360 Chris M Tue, 17 Mar 2009 21:12:33 +0000 #comment-360 Possibly too small a project for you. the brickwork,about 1.5m high, beneath the windows on 3 sides of our house is covered with a non porous paint which is cracked, peeling and holding in the moisture. How best to remove this, repoint and make good enough, probably for repainting. A quote or some idea of what we should be looking for from another company able to take on this smaller project would be welcome. Thank you. Hi Thanks’ for your posting to Wall2Wall Solutions Depending on the type of paint it may be possible to use a light sand blasting or hot water jetting method to clean the paint off, chemicals are also available we find this supplier to be good http://www.stripperspaintremovers.com/ If you give them a call they will help you, you can even purchase a small test kit of various stripper chemicals. Re pointing if required may be best undertaken in natural hydraulic lime NHL it depends on tha age of the property, make sure the beds are raked out a minimum of 15mm and cleaned and dampened to ensure a good key. We use an injection pointing method and usually finish off the grout in a bucket handle profile (slightly bevelled) It seems a shame to have to paint the brick work again but we understand if the brickwork is messy, i.e. patched up sections spalling brick etc) then this may be your only option. Another option you may not be aware of is our brick cladding system. This involves the fixing of a breather brick carrier which is mechanically fastened to the wall we can then clad the walls in either a modern metric brick or a cut down brick, we literally have hundreds of bricks to chose from. See our sister site www.clad.it Let me know if you want me to email you some before and after pictures of this system. If you wish you can email me some pictures of the walls on your house I can provide a ball park figure for you. Possibly too small a project for you. the brickwork,about 1.5m high, beneath the windows on 3 sides of our house is covered with a non porous paint which is cracked, peeling and holding in the moisture. How best to remove this, repoint and make good enough, probably for repainting. A quote or some idea of what we should be looking for from another company able to take on this smaller project would be welcome. Thank you.
Hi
Thanks’ for your posting to Wall2Wall Solutions Depending on the type of paint it may be possible to use a light sand blasting or hot water jetting method to clean the paint off, chemicals are also available we find this supplier to be good
http://www.stripperspaintremovers.com/
If you give them a call they will help you, you can even purchase a small test kit of various stripper chemicals.
Re pointing if required may be best undertaken in natural hydraulic lime NHL it depends on tha age of the property, make sure the beds are raked out a minimum of 15mm and cleaned and dampened to ensure a good key.
We use an injection pointing method and usually finish off the grout in a bucket handle profile (slightly bevelled)
It seems a shame to have to paint the brick work again but we understand if the brickwork is messy, i.e. patched up sections spalling brick etc) then this may be your only option.
Another option you may not be aware of is our brick cladding system.
This involves the fixing of a breather brick carrier which is mechanically fastened to the wall we can then clad the walls in either a modern metric brick or a cut down brick, we literally have hundreds of bricks to chose from. See our sister site http://www.clad.it

Let me know if you want me to email you some before and after pictures of this system.
If you wish you can email me some pictures of the walls on your house I can provide a ball park figure for you.

]]> Comment on Your Comments by admin http://wall2wallsolutions.co.uk/blog/?page_id=2#comment-274 admin Wed, 25 Feb 2009 16:11:38 +0000 #comment-274 Our Blog is now Fixed, sorry for any inconvenience W2W Admin Our Blog is now Fixed, sorry for any inconvenience

W2W Admin

]]> Comment on Your Comments by Chris Beaumont http://wall2wallsolutions.co.uk/blog/?page_id=2#comment-23 Chris Beaumont Fri, 24 Oct 2008 08:47:22 +0000 #comment-23 Hi Dave We have just completed 500 M² of rendering & Acrylic finish coat on an ICF house with external polystyrene slabs ( http://www.logix.uk.com ) Without doubt and provided to you free of charge our design system is as follows HP12 Base coat (very sticky) embed nylon mesh scrim into same coat about 2-3mm thick. Second coat of polymer render use PVCu corner bellcast stop beads, (or stainless smooth flat face finish. MASK windows etc prime in WBS universal primer colour of primer depends on final finish colour. Trowel or spray (spray gives a really nice uniform even finish) Chosen texture we recommend 2mm. Cost per M², £125 Ask us for jobs you can look at We also can include real brick & stone quoins or cladding to form features and plinths etc see our other site www.clad.it Regards Chris Beaumont Hi Dave
We have just completed 500 M² of rendering & Acrylic finish coat on an ICF house with external polystyrene slabs ( http://www.logix.uk.com )
Without doubt and provided to you free of charge our design system is as follows
HP12 Base coat (very sticky) embed nylon mesh scrim into same coat about 2-3mm thick.
Second coat of polymer render use PVCu corner bellcast stop beads, (or stainless smooth flat face finish.
MASK windows etc prime in WBS universal primer colour of primer depends on final finish colour. Trowel or spray (spray gives a really nice uniform even finish)
Chosen texture we recommend 2mm.
Cost per M², £125
Ask us for jobs you can look at
We also can include real brick & stone quoins or cladding to form features and plinths etc see our other site http://www.clad.it

Regards

Chris Beaumont

]]> Comment on Your Comments by dave harel http://wall2wallsolutions.co.uk/blog/?page_id=2#comment-21 dave harel Wed, 15 Oct 2008 01:14:39 +0000 #comment-21 currently under costruction a Polysteel house. External walls made of polystyrene. looking for solution to render acrilic render with a plastic reiforcing mesh and plastic beads at ccorner and around eindows and doors. need advice quotes and material for 1/sqr to see quality and aproval from client. cheers dave currently under costruction a Polysteel house. External walls made of polystyrene. looking for solution to render acrilic render with a plastic reiforcing mesh and plastic beads at ccorner and around eindows and doors.
need advice quotes and material for 1/sqr to see quality and aproval from client.
cheers
dave

]]> Comment on Your Comments by admin http://wall2wallsolutions.co.uk/blog/?page_id=2#comment-15 admin Tue, 12 Aug 2008 13:02:50 +0000 #comment-15 Hi Aubrey Patching pebble dash is a fairly skilled affair especially if you plan on leaving it unpainted. We have found its best to cut the edge back of the patch to offer a clean edge, rather than hacking the edges off. Depending on the thickness of the backing render and the aggregate used you should get a rebate of around 15-20mm. depending on the thickness you may require a scratch coat Use a sand cement ratio of 1-4 mix (one part cement to four parts sand a sharp sand should be used, make sure you incorporate an integral water proofer into the base coat to reduce “suction” a good one is sold at Whickes . The consistency wants to be easily workable, trowel apply the base coat on and scratch the surface to create a key. The next day or whenever apply the “butter coat” this is the same mix as above although you may want to incorporate a 2 parts ratio of finer builder’s soft yellow sand into the mix. Before you apply the second coat make sure you thoroughly wet down the scratch coat this is to reduce suction which could result in the render going off to quickly which would result in the pebble bouncing off the render not into it. You can also paint the backing render surface with Uni bond PVA be careful if you use PVA as some of the cheaper ones can emulsify Trowel apply the second coat on Don’t spend too much time getting it flat as the pebble hides slight undulations or float lines also make sure you apply it not too thick or thin it should accommodate the thickness of the pebble. As soon as the butter coat has been applied cast the pebble onto the wall with a small shovel off a tray if you are skilled enough you can catch the excess pebble before it hits the floor and cast it on a second time. (a cheap coal shovel is good) Do not use sweeping ups! No matter how good a job you do unless its going to be painted you will see the repairs. If its Canterbury spar (pink) you will have no problems getting hold of it, if you plan on painting it the colour doesn’t really matter although you will want to get the shape and size something like. A good place for specialist aggregate is http://www.derbyshireaggregates.com/dry-dashing-aggregates.html Chris Beaumont Surveyor Wall2Wall Solutions Hi Aubrey
Patching pebble dash is a fairly skilled affair especially if you plan on leaving it unpainted.
We have found its best to cut the edge back of the patch to offer a clean edge, rather than hacking the edges off.
Depending on the thickness of the backing render and the aggregate used you should get a rebate of around 15-20mm.
depending on the thickness you may require a scratch coat Use a sand cement ratio of 1-4 mix (one part cement to four parts sand a sharp sand should be used, make sure you incorporate an integral water proofer into the base coat to reduce “suction” a good one is sold at Whickes .
The consistency wants to be easily workable, trowel apply the base coat on and scratch the surface to create a key.

The next day or whenever apply the “butter coat” this is the same mix as above although you may want to incorporate a 2 parts ratio of finer builder’s soft yellow sand into the mix.
Before you apply the second coat make sure you thoroughly wet down the scratch coat this is to reduce suction which could result in the render going off to quickly which would result in the pebble bouncing off the render not into it.
You can also paint the backing render surface with Uni bond PVA be careful if you use PVA as some of the cheaper ones can emulsify
Trowel apply the second coat on
Don’t spend too much time getting it flat as the pebble hides slight undulations or float lines also make sure you apply it not too thick or thin it should accommodate the thickness of the pebble.
As soon as the butter coat has been applied cast the pebble onto the wall with a small shovel off a tray if you are skilled enough you can catch the excess pebble before it hits the floor and cast it on a second time.
(a cheap coal shovel is good)
Do not use sweeping ups!
No matter how good a job you do unless its going to be painted you will see the repairs.
If its Canterbury spar (pink) you will have no problems getting hold of it, if you plan on painting it the colour doesn’t really matter although you will want to get the shape and size something like.
A good place for specialist aggregate is
http://www.derbyshireaggregates.com/dry-dashing-aggregates.html
Chris Beaumont
Surveyor
Wall2Wall Solutions

]]> Comment on Your Comments by Aubrey Millward http://wall2wallsolutions.co.uk/blog/?page_id=2#comment-14 Aubrey Millward Tue, 12 Aug 2008 11:00:40 +0000 #comment-14 Could you please give me tips and advice on how to prepare and patch up a pebbledashed wall to match existing.Never done it before so as much info as possible please?Many thanks. Could you please give me tips and advice on how to prepare and patch up a pebbledashed wall to match existing.Never done it before so as much info as possible please?Many thanks.

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